......its been a long while since I've been in the surf riding waves. Felt good to paddle, getting lifted up and gaining speed as you look down upon the wave. Set the paddle allowing your rail to set on edge projecting you across the face of the wave.. You start looking for to open wave face to redirect you turn off the top of the lip. only to repeat the process again. Then when you kick out and the wave is over the excitement continues as you paddle out thru the breaking waves getting back to the takeoff spot. Its a full circle of joy not only riding waves but paddling back out is also thrilling.. Full on involvement all session.. LOVE IT....
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