Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Surprise waist high fun today...

We had a strong NE winds15-20 knots that blew all yesterday afternoon and over night with buoy's reading up to 7.2 feet with ENE swell readings.. Then at 5 am the winds went NW cleaning up the surf . A small local wind swell developed and I was greeted with clean waist high waves at first light. I was so amped to see fun surf and having my girlfriend Karen's old Christmas Tree I was disposing of , in the back of the truck I just had to share the gift of waves with two of my best friends. I made a call to get their ARSSES" here saying ""it was waist high and perfect for the Stand Ups"". I got in the water within minutes. In about 20 min and several long rides later, I was joined by Jamie and Jesse. We shared a super fun Stand Up session. Long lefts to the Folly and rippable right hand waves. Some sets were that came thru were chest high, easy..The air temp was 45'F , water 51*f but its always summer on the inside..
We paddled and exchanged waves for about two hours till the tide started dropping. I got out and took these pics of my Bro's, Jamie and Jesse.
Here is a quote from Jamie and what had to say about today...
'''Jessie, Glen and me immersed ourselves in God's ocean this morning, cleaning our hearts and renewing our spirits. After ripping one of the lined up waves I heard Glen shout: TUEESSDAAAAY! A call to God no doubt with thanksgiving. And what a Tuesday it will be with clean hearts and renewed spirits. Praise God...'''
Amen, Jamie..

Jamie and Jesse waiting for the one... of many

Jamie on the nose of the Bonga
Jesse gaining speed for the Folly
Jesse on the perfect little left
Jamie milking the inside
Jesse on the reverse leaner 'left
Jamie, Toes on the nose SUP way..
Jesse heading for the Folly again.. 100 yard ride

Jesse redirect

My Bro's
Jamie about to jam a turn...
Mind you these pics of Jamie and Jesse were taken on the dropping tide and all with-in 15 minutes of each other..

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